Walthers 72’ Centerbeam with Jaeger HO Lumber Load
This is my second try at customizing lumber loads for my model train rolling stock. I’ve always wanted a centerbeam but I didn’t think that my prototype railroad Burlington Northern ran centerbeams; then I saw photos and changed my whole outlook on the subject
Before I chose to assemble the Jaeger HO lumber load, I bought a Walthers 72’ centerbeam, along with a Walthers lumber load, and immediately I didn’t like the look of the plastic load. I had already bought a bulkhead flatcar with a Jaeger load but didn’t assemble it yet.
Perhaps the reason I didn’t assemble the Jaeger load for my bulkhead is that it looked like a challenge and that I’d mess it up and have to suck up the loss. I researched and saw how others put the load together and then felt that it wouldn’t be as difficult as I thought.
The moment I placed the first few loads, I knew I made the right decision; look at how much more realistic the centerbeam looks as compared to the BN above.
The tools I use are relatively common and cheap, making the project much more easier to do than if I didn’t have them.
After I finished assembling one side, I couldn’t think of anything else. I couldn’t wait to finish the other side.
From previous experience with my bulkhead flat car project, I didn’t like the way the Jaeger lumber loads were wrapped with nylon string. My research found that the loads looked more prototypical if Pactrim tape is used. Now I couldn’t find Pactrim at my local hobby shop, nor did I want to wait for mail order, nor did I think paying $10 for Pactrim would be as cheap as using black electrical tape.
By taping together two Exacto blades, I found that the distance between the blade tips was approximately the 1/32” width of Pactrim tape. Estimating the length needed to wrap the block was easy; I just wrapped the block in the non-sticky side of the black tape.
Below are the tools I use for this part of the project and an example of the resulting substitution.
Although it took some time, I finished wrapping just over half of the loads.
I am almost there, looking good.
Next I had to drill holes in my centerbeam, using #64 drill bit. 72 holes for the cabling.
These are the spacers for unloading and loading the loads.
I stacked the load, next up is the cabling.
To thread the holes with the cabling, I dipped the tips of the nylon string in Super Glue, then after the tips dried, I cut the cable at a sharp angle, making very easy to thread the holes.
Looking good.
A revealing closeup of the cabling project.
Another closeup of the cabling project.
I tightened the cabling, then used a toothpick to apply the Super Glue to the cable. Once I finished one side, I trimmed the excess cable.
Look at how great that looks. The real thing.
The finished project. This took over 12 hours of work, and not one temper tantrum.
After I figure out how to remove the plastic load on my other BN centerbeam, that is next on my list for equipping with another Jaeger lumber load.
I finished this Athearn 60’ bulkhead flatcar using Jaeger lumber load but might take it apart for a do over as it is not prototypical. I did follow the vague instructions, then followed some online instructions that were also non-prototypical. The load is supposed to be secured with tie down wrapped over the top. Each wrapped box is supposed to be banded. After the re-do, this model will look fantastic
Diesel Locomotives
BURLINGTON NORTHERN ROSTER
Burlington Northern SD40-2 #8143
Burlington Northern SD40-2 #8090
Burlington Northern SD40-2 #8097
Burlington Northern SD45, #6430
Burlington Northern, BN, SD45, #6416
Burlington Northern, BN, GP50, #3110
Burlington Northern, BN, GP38-2, #2076
BURLINGTON NORTHERN SANTA FE ROSTER
BNSF Railway Dash 9-44CW #617
Burlington Northern Santa Fe, BNSF SD40-2 #6854
Burlington Northern Santa Fe, BNSF, SD40-2, #6752
Burlington Northern Santa Fe, BNSF, SD40-2, #6821
Burlington Northern Santa Fe, BNSF- SD40, #6301
MILWAUKEE ROAD ROSTER
Milwaukee Road, MILW, SD45, #8
GREAT NORTHERN ROSTER
Great Northern, GN, SD45, #417
Track Ballasting Tutorial
Tools and Supplies
1. 1 inch foam brush
2. 1/4 inch stiff bristle brush
3. small container for ballast
4. small mixing dish for glue
The Process
Mix glue with water, just enough to make it slightly soupy, but not too much or it will dry too quickly.
Using your stick bristle brush, apply the glue on both the roadbed and the foundation, but mostly on the foundation. The purpose being that you want the ballast to form a nice clean edge for the next steps.
Once you are finished with applying the glue mixture, pour the ballast on the glued roadbed. What we expect to happen is that the glue on the foundation will capture the ballast as it is flowing down the roadbed. You want to apply just enough ballast that will cover the end ties as shown in the photo. Once you complete applying the ballast to the edges, then pour a small amount of ballast between the rails, just enough to cover the rails but not too much as indicated in the following photos.
Using the foam brush, start with the brush at an angle between the rails, dragging it along until you start seeing the excess ballast start pouting out onto the edges of the track. Once you are finished with your first pass, then take the brush, covering both rails and the center ties, pull it along until you see the ballast off the ties. Then once you finish this part, remove any ballast still on the ties in between which if you do this right, there should be very little.
Now to the tie ends, using the foam brush’s edge with the handle sloped over the rails, push the ballast into the spaces between the ties; the purpose of this is to reduce those voids between ties and underneath the rail which makes the rails seem like they are floating in space. You want to cover the tie ends but not so much that you end up with ballast between the rails, leading to another cleaning.
Again, using the foam brush’s edge in the outer web between the top of the rail and tie, and the brush’s handle pointing away from the track at a slight angle, pull it along, but keeping the sloped edge of the brush horizontal with ties. We want to remove any ballast from the top of the tie ends. You should start seeing a very clean looking ballasting job.
Then using the foam brush, pull any remaining ballast scattered on the foundation towards the ballasted roadbed, shaping it to slope.
Now we move to the next step, cementing the ballast permanently.
I like using small spray applicator bottles for their misting capabilities as well as to prevent children from taking a full scale spray bottle and dangerously spraying each other in the eyes or on other important things.
Starting about a foot above the ballasted track, spray the 50/50 wet water on the ballast. Make a few passes until you can start seeing the ballast changing color. Then keep spraying but get closer to the ballast until you start seeing the wet water pool between the rails. Once this is finished, move to applying the Scenic Cement. I am sorry that I couldn’t take a photo for this step but it is very self-explanatory. Start by keeping your misting applicator high, then gradually with each pass, start getting closer.
With your small applicator as shown earlier, drip the cement in between the rails until you start seeing it pool, then move on to the tie ends. Starting at the edge of the ballast and foundation, drip the cement, what you want to see is the cement wick into the ballast, provided you’ve applied enough wet water. Once you are finished, move your cement applicator to the tie end, again dripping the cement onto the ballast, you should see the cement vanish during the first few drips, then start to pool, then you can continue on until you are finished.
Then that’s it, you are finished with that part.
If you should accidentally squeeze your cement applicator and it knocks some of your ballast away, use the wooden handle to gently tap some ballast back into place. Another tip is not to touch the ballast for 24 hours or more, then when you do, do some gently, you want to feel whether the glue solidified, if it is mushy, it is still wet; allow it to dry completely.
Just finished completing construction of new model grain elevator and hand-painted it Tamiya Flat Aluminum; I know it is very shiny but that is caused by the fluorescent lighting. Once I weather it with Floquil Rust, that should tone it down a bit. But before I weather it, I’ll apply the cool looking decals.
As you can see, my layout is getting slightly crowded. I still have several spots left for a grain silo and barn, perhaps a church and a bank or something like that. I’ll have to spread out my trees a bit to add some green here and there.
Every Railroad Empire Needs A Grain Elevator And Water Tower
After weeks of staring at this wonderful grain elevator, I finally bought it. Assembly only took a couple of days and was a very interesting learning experience. What I learned from this model assembly will help during my next construction project coming down the rail.
The model Walthers HO 3022 ADM Grain Elevator Kit 933-3022 was bought on sale for $24.99 from Model Train Stuff and arrived within a week after ordering.
Water Tower
Walthers HO 2826 City Water Tower Silver Built-Up 933-2826
Fortunately the water tower was pre-assembled and looks awesome.
I am almost finished with my layout. I plan on adding some foundation material (sifted sand) after making some roads and sidewalks. Then round and round we go, having fun.
My Layout: Croxton Terminal on 48" X 89.5" plywood →
A link to a forum that I’ve been posting my layout progress and other interesting items. Click on the title My Layout: Croxton Terminal on 48” X 89.5” plywood
My wife’s favorite rolling stock
And, of course, it had to be hot pink:
This speaks for itself. This metal reefer car is vintage Tyco, modified to roll on my layout with Kadee trucks and wheelsets.
Ballasting Track
Latest Update on My Ballasting Project
While ballasting my track, I noticed that ballast color was slightly brighter. I looked at the packaging, both were the same except the new ballast came in a bottle and the former in a bag. Hopefully it’ll fade with time.
Ice Cream Shop and Burlington Northern Locomotives
The engineers are getting some soft serve.
Ballasting and GP50 BN Tiger
Here is my layout replete with its mini forest in the bacgrouind. In the foreground is my new GP50 Burlington Northern Phase II Tiger. Also being featured is my current track ballasting project; afterwards I’ll continue, adding more terrain features to break up the flat surface.
A close-up of my Athearn GP50
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